The Sultan’s Table

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Hong Kong has quite the mosaic of Turkish cuisine, from speciality kebab or pizza joints to shisha smoke-immersed establishments offering full blown banquets. But none have really distinguished themselves from the pack – despite strong representation, we still lack a go-to joint. Taking over the space that was previously occupied by Kasbah, The Sultan’s Table promises authentic Turkish fare that looks poised to make a memorable mark in our dining scene.

Though the signage bears a striking resemblance to a longstanding restaurant of the same name in Sydney, we’ve been assured there are no affiliations. And gone are the Turkish lamps, wall art and low-lighting of the previous establishment – in their place are dome lighting fixtures and whitewood seating offset by bright canvases which add a bit of life to the walls.

We start with a beef and lamb içli köfte ($92), and the bulgar and minced meat croquette is spot on. Fried to golden perfection, the accompanying light yoghurt dip is just enough to cut through the richness of the dish. The petite manti – Turkish ravioli – ($98) are next, and there’s an oddly satisfying feeling about eating these little morsels by the spoonful. Like the yoghurt in the previous dish, the sauce here is tart, and while the packets of meat are al dente, the ground beef filling is too scant. So much so that when the yoghurt flavour subsides, we’re craving more protein to round off the flavours.

For mains we select the kuzu pirzola (rack of lamb) ($225). Though grilled to our desired specification, the meat is so lightly marinated we can’t help but notice that the paprika and herb-dusted fries on the side bring more personality to the plate. The classic dondurmah irmik – Turkish ice cream encased in sponge – ($78) rounds things off. Though the cake is a bit crumbly, the full-bodied fragrance of the salep and mastic in the ice cream is a satisfying end to the meal.

We enjoy the mezze more than the mains during this visit, but for a taste of Turkey, The Sultan’s Table is a solid bet. We can’t say the price for the portion sizes are exactly value-sized, but given the location and the execution, we’ll definitely be back to try more of what the menu has to offer. Lisa Cam

The Sultan’s Table G/F, Shiu King Court, 4-8 Arbuthnot Rd, Central, 2555 7678; thesultanstable.com. Dinner for two $600.

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