Thai Wan


Ship Street – that upmarket sliver of Wan Chai home to the likes of Ham & Sherry, Akrame, Motorino, Atelier Vivanda and 22 Ships – welcomes newcomer Thai Wan. While the rest are all fashionable eateries, the latter is a casual drinking den. Although the address lists the location as Queen's Road East, the bar is in fact on the less visited part of Ship Street south of QRE. The building site opposite doesn’t offer the most picturesque view, but at least it matches the industrial chic of the bar’s interior.

The beers are the most notable drinks on the menu. As well as predictable stalwarts on tap, there’re local brews like Lionrock Signature ($70) and Oriental Pearl ($70) available. The bottled options are varied too, ranging from Yona Yona ($58, brewed with ‘the purest H20 in Japan’, apparently) to HopWired ($78), a New Zealand IPA. The cocktails are at the back of the drinks menu and we soon discover why. The Mojito Thaiwan ($78) is a weak, sickly concoction. The addition of passion fruit to the traditional recipe does nothing but result in an unappealing ersatz flavour. A white Russian ($78) is no better. Liqueur and cream are nonexistent, the drink instead tasting like a watery mix of vodka and milk. Fortunately, the bar snacks bring a little pleasure. The Thaiwan Roll ($68), with Thai and Taiwanese sausages wrapped in rice paper, is a flavoursome treat alongside the homemade sweet and spicy sauce.

Thai Wan is a cosy looking space, but the quality of its cocktails is a dissapointment. If you visit, best stick to the beers and food. Douglas Parkes

Thai Wan Shop 3, G/F, Greatmany Ctr, 109-115 Queen’s Rd E, Wan Chai, 3709 6595;


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